How Cosmetic Smuggling in North Korea is a Symbol of Resistance

By: Martina Cugini

Defector Danbi Kim, a notorious smuggler of South Korean beauty products, posed in the streets of South Korea

South Korean beauty, commonly known as “K-beauty”, and its skincare products have seamlessly integrated into the Western market, riding the wave of popular South Korean cultural elements. Responding to high demand, renowned brands like Innisfree, Laniege, and Sulwhasoo have successfully debuted on websites such as Sephora and Amazon, making the consumption of these products more available to Western consumers. K-beauty appeals to the West for its effortless, natural look, affordable price, and aesthetic packaging. In fact, the allure of  K-beauty is so desired that North Korean defectors, like Danbi Kim, have risked their lives to bring these coveted products into the country. Kim handled thousands of daily orders from various regions across North Korea. After multiple run-ins with the “beauty police” who patrol streets to make sure citizens are within state-approved appearances, she was caught by the regime and faced torture for several months in a prison camp (Ko, 2020). Despite grave repercussions, beauty product smugglers still exist. The question arises: why do South Korean products continue to dominate in the North when they have their own cosmetic brands and markets? 

The answer is simple. South Korean makeup products serve as a subtle yet powerful symbol of resistance against the regime. It’s hard to believe how something as insignificant as cosmetics can enforce opposition to the North Korean government, but it’s possible and it became a reality for defectors like Noel Kim. When she saw people in her community of Onsong dye their hair and wear jeans, it inspired her to take risks with her fashion choices. She remembers buying her first hair dye, not for aesthetic reasons but just to demonstrate to her peers that she was willing to do it. Similarly, Danbi Kim stated how once she had these products, the temptation to wear them was too strong and she wore them regardless of the reprimands from the beauty police. Shared rebellion and disobedience is a collective step that places pressure on the regime. The hope is that if individuals gradually defy the rules, the government might be forced to change and succumb to the pressures. Cosmetic influence doesn’t stop there. According to defector Jessie Kim, cosmetics are almost like a “gateway drug” in the way information about beauty exposes citizens to symbols of personal expression and freedom. The more people that gain information about beauty, the more people can possibly gain information about other aspects of life not presented in North Korean society (Lebsack 2019). 

Another way in which cosmetics challenge the regime’s ideals is the way differences in appearance contradict totalitarian views. North Korea’s socialist totalitarian government “structures” every aspect of its citizens' lives, including their physical appearance. Professor Nam Sung-Wook, chair of the Department of North Korean Studies at Korea University and co-author of the book “North Korean Women and Cosmetics”, states that “ the guideline of physical appearance is very important for the regime to effectively control and lead the citizens.” In fact, this “structure” is so important to the government that North Korean women and men have a few set hairstyles they can choose from in salons in order to maintain this similarity (Reardon, 2019). Given how heavily enforced the beauty requirements are, any stray away from this unity, such as differing hair colour or style, is seen as an act of rebellion against the forced conformity the regime instills. 

Works Cited

Image Citation:

Lebsack, L. (2019, May 18). ‘Beauty is freedom’: The North Korean millennials wearing makeup to rebel against the state. R29. Retrieved November 23, 2023, from https://www.lexylebsack.com/home/lipstick-hair-dye-amp-power-how-beauty-is-fueling-a-revolution-in-north-korea

Article citation: 

Lebsack, L., & Lebsack, L. (2019, May 21). Lipstick, Hair Dye, & Power — How Beauty Is Fuelling A Revolution In North Korea. Refinery29. https://www.refinery29.com/en-ca/2019/05/233330/north-korea-beauty-products-makeup-smugglers

Ko, S. (2020, March 3). ‘Beauty is freedom’: The North Korean millennials wearing makeup to rebel against the state. CNN. Retrieved November 23, 2023, from https://www.cnn.com/style/article/north-korea-womens-beauty-freedom/index.html

Reardon, A. (2019, July 29). In North Korea, contraband mascara is a weapon of resistance. Document. https://www.documentjournal.com/2019/07/in-north-korea-contraband-mascara-is-a-weapon-of-resistance/